Aimer Lingerie Factory, Fashion production complex

보호와 투명성의 란제리 속성을 공간에 반영한 베이징 에이미 란제리 팩토리

기업의 브랜드를 강화시키고 공장 내 커뮤니케이션을 돕는 매력적이고 유기적인 근무 환경

중국 베이징 북동쪽 교외지역에 위치한 순이 구에 들어선 에이미 공장은 바닥 면적 14,000 ㎡에 달하는 규모의 저장고와 생산시설, 300명을 수용할 수 있는 기숙사를 갖춘 공장 복합 단지이다. 중국 에이미사는 Crossboundaries건축에게 회사 자체 브랜드의 이미지를 강화하고 성장하는 경제에 적응하기 위해서 연구개발실을 추가로 설계해줄 것을 의뢰하였다. 중국 내에서 빠르게 성장하던 에이미사는 제조업을 중심으로 한 패션 브랜드의 운영 방식을 개선하고자 한 것이다.

이에 건축가 Binke Lenhardt와 Hao Dong은 인접한 모든 비즈니스 기능들을 단일 지붕 아래 집약시키는 방안을 제시하였다. 이를 통해 효율적인 사업 운영과 공용공간이 확보된 거대한 독립된 사각형의 매스가 완성되었다. 53,000㎡ 적지 않은 규모로 들어선 공장은 반듯한 정방형의 매스에 내부에 부드럽고 완만한 보이드된 곡면을 품고 있는 것이 특징적이다. 각각의 공간들은 제조를 위한 공장시설과 관리운영시설이 서로 유기적인 관계를 형성하고 업무 효율성의 증진과 클라이언트와 디자이너간의 성공적인 컬래버레이션할 수 있는 산업 공간을 튼실하게 구현하고 있다. 공장에 들어서는 방문객들이 마주하는 12m 높이의 큼지막한 로비 공간은 남서측 코너의 숍과 컨퍼런스 기능을 포함한 에이미 뮤지엄으로 발길을 유도한다. 컨퍼런스홀과 로비 상부는 사무 공간이 자리하며 내부에는 관리영역과 생산 영역간의 적절한 커뮤니케이션을 위한 공공 휴게실이 마련되어 있다. 이러한 단일 건물 내에 여러 가지 기능들이 혼재되어 있는 복합시설은 기존의 공장 시설의 현대화는 물론 노동자와 관리자를 위한 평등한 복지 환경을 제공한다는 점에서 신선하다.

건물 내의 보이드 공간의 커팅을 통해 13m 높이로 마련된 공용 데크는 곡선형의 내부 파사드를 따라 수직과 수평 동선을 자연스럽게 이어준다. 내부 파사드를 따라 설치된 창을 통해 자연채광이 공장과 오피스 내부로 부드럽게 유입된다. 각각의 공간을 상층부에서 이어주는 데크는 목재로 깔려 있으며 생산자와 관리자 모두가 같은 공간에서 산책하고 휴식할 수 있는 활력 공간으로 손색이 없다.

이렇게 디자인된 건물에 에이미사는 각종 이벤트와 쇼케이스, 업무 회의 등 다양한 용도로 이용되길 원하고 있다. 사인디자인에는 란제리의 본질을 반영하고 일관된 흐름으로 적용되었다. 건물의 내외부를 형성하는 파사드는 아연 도금된 알루미늄 패널, 조립식 콘크리트 패널이 조화롭게 적용되었다. 특히 수직적 패턴을 만들어내는 알루미늄 패널과 유리 마감과의 절묘한 결합은 제품 중심의 공간과 사람 중심의 공간에서 요구되는 서로 다른 빛의 정도를 넌지시 제시한다. 이러한 차별화된 파사드 디자인은 보호와 투명성이라는 란제리의 속성을 공간 디자인에 반영한 것이다. 다이내믹하게 전개되는 데크형 브리지를 산책하듯 거닐면서 공장 이용객들은 제품 브랜드에 대한 영감과 확신을 얻을 수 있게 된다.

수직 동선을 연결하는 로비의 한쪽에 마련된 계단에는 흰색의 얇은 기둥들이 빼곡하게 감싸고 있다. 다양한 경사를 지닌 기둥들은 천장에서 바닥, 계단 하부까지 이어지며 매장과 뮤지엄의 영역을 적절히 가려주고 있다. 새로운 란제리 컬렉션을 선보이기 위해 모델들이 계단을 통해 내려오는 이벤트적 공간은 더욱 풍성함을 더한다. 로비에서 바라볼 때 계단은 적절한 무대장치를 가미한 리듬감 있는 플로어가 되는 셈이다. 이처럼 에이미 란제리 팩토리는 사각형의 단순한 매스 안에 담겨진 유기적인 곡선형의 매스를 통해 사용자의 부드러운 감성을 충족시켜주기에 충분하다. 벽과 천장, 중정과 복도 등의 내부를 타고 흐르는 둥글고 흐르는 듯한 조명과 빛의 신비로움 역시 외부와 적절히 관계맺음을 통해 공장 내 근무 환경의 쾌적함을 부여하고 있다. ANN

Architect_ Binke Lenhardt, Hao Dong

자료_ Crossboundaries

When Aimer first approached Crossboundaries in 2004, it requested a factory compound of 14000sqm gross floor area that could house conventional storage, manufacturing, and a 300-people dormitory by individual functions. However, as Aimer grew rapidly in China, the leadership quickly foresaw the importance to upgrade its operation shifting from a production-focused business to a genuine fashion brand. In order to reinforce its brand image and adapt to a maturing economy, Crossboundaries was asked to add a Research and Development office, a 23000sqm distribution center as well as spaces to showcase its products. The realized facility of 53000sqm in 2014 represents a successful collaboration between Aimer and the designers in rethinking the future of the Chinese brand that integrates production, brand building with the well-being of employees.

To optimize the site, Crossboundaries gathered all business functions under one roof, resulted in a rectangular stand-alone building that presents strength and authority to the public. Following the idea to boost Aimer’s operational efficiency in order to move up the value chain, Crossboundaries responded with detail research and understanding of how Aimers goods, employees and visitors navigate within and between the spaces. The west public entry into the 12m high lobby invites visitors to the southwest corner of shop and Aimer museum as well as the ground floor conference center that will host industry events. Above the conference center and lobby is the office area, which shares a communal deck with the manufacturing areas, cutting down in-house communication time between administration and production.

Not only does the complex serve conventional factory needs in a modern way, but it also creates a factory community based on the communist system of a ‘danwei’. “Even though Aimer is upgrading its operation to meet international business standard, it still provides accomodation as part of compensation for the workers based on the communist idea of ‘danwei’,” said principal Binke Lenhardt. The 600-people dormitory seperates from the facility with recreational areas in between, generating a distinction between work and living therefore enhancing the sense of community for workers. While it is important to the client to present a strong image, Crossboundaries envisioned a factory environment that attends to the well-being of workers and administration employees equally. By cutting a void in the builiding and placing a communal deck set at level +13m, the doubled public space crossing ground floor and the deck allows air to better circulate horizontally and vertically along the curved inner facade. The use of top-hinged glass windows along the inner facade maximize the amount of natural light that shines into both manufacturing and office areas. This timbered deck therefore serves as a bridge to bring administration and workers to stroll and relax in the same place. “We have to break away from the imprisoning working environment, moving from disciplining workers to engaging communication and breathing within the factories,” said principal Hao Dong.

Since Aimer intends to use the building for events, showcasing and industry conferences, Crossboundaries’s deep understanding of Aimer’s vision later led to designing the building's interior, landscape and signage for a consistent image that reflects the essence of lingerie. Although the industrial nature of the facility is addressed with galvanized aluminum and concrete on the outer and inner façade respectively, the aluminum panles were designed with vertical fins and concrete panels pre-fabricated in order to enliven a flattened cube with tactility. The outer facade transitions from aluminum coverage to a combination of aluminum and glass, accomodating the different levels of lighting required in products-centered areas and human-centered areas. The visual effect of the facade therefore reflects the nature of lingerie: coverage and transparency. The staircase in the lobby winds around a veil of slender white columns set at various inclinations screening off the shop and museum. It also doubles as an decending catwalk for models to reveal a new collection of lingerie, emerging from behind the veil to the audiance in the lobby. This sense of exploration and mystery is frequently echoed in lighting, walkways and voids with curves and rounded quadrilateral patterns, which were extracted abstractly from selections of lace.

While the county of Shunyi sees a growing number of industrial architectures and outlets, the Aimer Factory’s contemporary aesthetic and functions allocation are designed with the future in mind: the possibility to use the architecture for other purposes and setting Aimer apart as a leading national brand that will be ready to compete internationally.

About Crossboundaries

Founded in 2005 and organized as an international partnership, Crossboundaries has offices in Beijing, Frankfurt and Berlin. With staff originating from and trained in Asia, Europe and North America we provide unique spatial solutions deriving from local cultural knowledge and transnational expertise. Crossboundaries contributes to a vital built environment through architecture, environmental design and urban regeneration. We create enduring architecture that often deals with remarkable technical processes, yet always has a pleasant material touch and human atmosphere. The work of Crossboundaries originates from a strong belief that design as a process results in successful, operational buildings. This approach is based on two fundamental principles: research and collaboration. For our projects we create suitable multi-disciplinary teams where all participants can assess the opportunities within the given conditions. We identify the essential questions, jointly create pragmatic solutions by data collection and analyze significant precedents. We regularly discuss possible programmatic shifts with our clients to raise their benefits of the project. This approach has been proven successful for projects ranging from automotive production to childcare facilities and cultural complexes.

About Aimer

Founded in 1993, Aimer is one of the leading lingerie brands in China and as well a fashion kingdom which is dedicated to supplying high quality lingerie products for women, men, youth, kids. Led by a world-class creative design team, Aimer believes in creating beauty and quality lingerie products. The Group consistently focuses on innovation and creativity in its designs, which often features an elegant fusion of oriental and western design elements. With an international presence in Europe, the Middle East and Southeast Asia, the Group’s creative design team continuously creates more than 400 new products under Aimer’s five main brands: AIMER, imi's, LA CLOVER, AIMER men and Aimer kids. Aimer Group is recognised today as the pioneer of Chinese fashion lingerie brands, bringing evolutionary innovation into the designs of lingerie products.

Architect: Crossboundaries

Client: Beijing Aimer Lingerie Co.,Ltd

Interior Design: Crossboundaries

Landscape Architect: Crossboundaries

Collaborating Architects & Engineers: BIAD International Studio & BIAD TSH International Studio

Structure and Material: Reinforced concrete

Location: Shunyi District, Beijing, China

Area: 53000sqm

Facade: Glass and galvanized aluminium panel system, concrete panel system

Awards: 2014 Annual China Construction Engineering Luban Prize